December 9, 2022

Put on your shades if you have sensitive eyes: our retinas are in for an intense spectacle. Bvlgari has just unlocked a treasure chest at Geneva Watch Days 2022. Because no 10th anniversary worth celebrating should go without something precious, lining up are three Octo Finissimo models — the Chronograph GMT and Automatic in pink gold as well as a yellow gold Automatic limited edition.

Having burst onto the horological scene in 2012, the Bvlgari Octo collection has been busy breaking new ground. Since the debut of the Finissimo range in 2014, the famously ultra-thin wristwatches have garnered eight world records spanning their chronometric, acoustic, and astronomical complications. Additionally, the stellar range has also seen a variety of executions playing with different finishes, colors, and materials.

Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT

One down, three to go

While we’ve seen gold Octo Finissimos before, this is the first time there has been such a strong presence of gold in the lineup. Yesterday, we introduced the Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days, which boasts an impressive 192-hour power reserve and a brand-new movement. Joining the presentation are three more shiny objects of desire. Let us start with the Chronograph GMT.

A Finissimo big boy

For the Chronograph GMT model, the faceted octagonal case is crafted in 18K rose gold with a beautiful alternating satin-polished finish. Unsurprisingly, the chronograph case is bulkier than the time-only gold model that RJ reviewed here. The case construction echoes the previous stainless steel Chronograph GMT, which Rob called a masterpiece last year. As Octo Finissimos go, it is relatively substantial, measuring 43mm in diameter, 53mm from lug to lug, and 8.75mm thick. It is fitted with a rose gold crown with a black ceramic inlay, along with rose gold pushers on both sides. Sapphire crystals seal off the displays on both the front and the back. This construction ensures water resistance to 100 meters.

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Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT

 

BLV 318

At the heart is the in-house caliber BLV 318. Measuring just 3.3mm thick, this self-winding integrated-chronograph movement helped the Octo Finissimo clinch the world record for the slimmest mechanical chronograph in 2019. The BLV 318 carries 37 jewels, beats at a frequency of 28,800vph (4Hz), and offers 55 hours of power reserve.

Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT

The peripheral rotor

One really cool thing I don’t want to gloss over is the platinum peripheral winding weight, which rotates along the outer ring of the movement. This rare and high-end construction not only allows the architecture to stay slim but also makes for a neat design. Anything well done and uncommon in the watch world is interesting in my books. And of course, this unusual feature opens up the space to exhibit the stunning movement in its entirety.

Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT

Turning it over to the front, all functions are displayed against a brown-lacquered sunray dial. The small seconds sit at 9 o’clock, the 30-minute counter at 6 o’clock, and the second-timezone indication at 3 o’clock. The hour and minute hands as well as the rose gold applied indexes are filled with Super-LumiNova. The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is styled with a brown alligator leather strap secured by a rose gold pin buckle. The price of this model is €36,000 including VAT.

The Finissimo classic

For the other two models, Bvlgari has brought back the classic Octo Finissimo Automatic in rose gold and yellow gold. The full-gold armor now showcases a new brown-lacquered sunray dial. The case remains 40mm in diameter and 6.4mm in thickness, and the crown is fitted with a black ceramic insert. The finishing is further enhanced compared with the previous all-gold Automatic model. With contrasting satin and polished surfaces not only throughout the case but also across the bracelet, it elevates dress-watch elegance. And not that anyone would need it, but the case also offers impressive water resistance of 100 meters. The full-gold bracelet features an ergonomically constructed and seamless double-deployant buckle.

BVL 138

The dial features gold-colored hands, indexes, and numerals, as well as a small seconds indicator in the bottom-left quadrant. Powering the time-only Octo Finissimo Automatic is the in-house BVL 138 movement. This self-winding caliber comprises 208 components and 31 jewels in a record-holding 2.23mm-slim profile. The mechanism has incorporated a new automatic winding system, a closed barrel, and a new structure for the escapement and balance. It beats at 21,600vph (3Hz) and provides a power reserve of 60 hours.The entire caliber is hand-finished and decorated with Côtes de Genève, chamfers, and perlage. The exquisite craftsmanship is on full display through the sapphire case back along with the platinum micro-rotor.

The golden anniversary

The Octo Finissimo Automatic in rose gold enters the regular collection at €45,000 including VAT. As for the yellow gold version, it is a limited edition of 50 pieces and reserved for the American market only. To mark the 50th “golden” anniversary of the first Bvlgari boutique in the United States, 50 lucky owners can have a piece of the celebration to the tune of US$45,500 excluding taxes.

For more information, visit the official Bvlgari website.